Reviving a Cultural Celebration
After a hiatus of three years, the "Carols in the Old Village" winter event has returned to the Uzhhorod open-air museum in Zakarpattia. The festival, which hadn't taken place since 2020 due to the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, is a significant cultural celebration that draws thousands of locals and tourists to witness the diverse caroling traditions of Zakarpattia's various ethnic groups and regions. From the Lemkos of the Uzhanska Valley to the vibrant Maramuresh and the Hutsuls of Zakarpattia, the event showcases traditions from different ethnicities, including the Hungarians, Slovaks, and Romanians. It's a unique opportunity to experience these diverse traditions simultaneously, making the festival a much-anticipated event each year. However, the years of COVID restrictions and the ongoing war led to its neglect until its revival in January 2024.
The Bethlehem of the Village
On a Wednesday afternoon in early January, school buses line up near the Uzhhorod open-air museum, carrying "Bethlehem" groups from various parts of Zakarpattia. These groups, referred to in Hungarian tradition as "vertep" (Nativity scenes), come dressed in white costumes adorned with churches, stars, bells, fur coats, and masks, rehearsing and making their way to the museum. Observing their procession, one can witness the immediate transformation of the locals and solitary tourists upon encountering these Bethlehem groups. Smiles emerge, phones are pulled out, and some even offer money to the carolers. It's a stark contrast to the prevalent hardship, tears, and sorrow caused by the war. Instead, it serves as a reminder of the pre-war and post-war ways of life, encapsulating the essence of Christmas with vibrant costumes and caroling—a reflection of a different, more joyous time.